Lincoln Cathedral: Interior

“I have always held and proposed against all comers to maintain that the Cathedral of Lincoln is out and out the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles” – John Ruskin.

After circumnavigating the cathedral at least twice by day and night, it was time to venture inside. Unlike Norwich it is not free to enter, but you can buy a combination ticket with the castle and the admission includes a floor tour. Originally built by the Normans after the defeat in 1066, Lincoln cathedral was consecrated in 1092. The diocese stretched from the Humber in the north to the Thames in the south, and after an earthquake in 1185 only the west front remains from the Norman period.

Inside, it is filled with light from the many stained-glass windows. (You guessed it, a separate post will follow)

Nave
Nave with the impressive choir screen and Willis organ in the background

Depressingly filled with light-sucking dark plastic chairs. Originally the space would have been empty and the spaces used for markets. When people gathered for services they would have stood.

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A pilgrimage is a special kind of a journey

The font is made of a black carboniferous limestone from France, waxed and polished to resemble marble. Its sides are carved with mythical beasts of good and evil fighting.

West face of the font
West face of the font

To your left is the art work of William Fairbank, “The Forest Stations” which show Jesus’s journey to the Crucifixion and Resurrection, carved from many different types of wood.

At the crossing you can see that the church was built in the shape of a cross. Huge rose windows face each other from the north and south transepts.

I’ll go into more detail about the windows in a separate post. In the north transept you find the Service Chapels – for remembering soldiers, sailors and airmen. Lincoln cathedral is especially connected with those who served in the Bomber Command during WWII.

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As usual in English cathedrals, the full vista of the nave is blocked, and the choir – in this case St Hugh’s Choir which is almost a church within a church – is hidden from view. However, in this case the screen is exquisitely beautiful. Carved in stone and originally painted in bright colours, some of which can be still seen in faded glory, it was built in 1330 to separate the clergy, their assistants and the choir from the congregation.

The Choir Screen
The Choir Screen

I was so taken by the carvings on this screen that I will make a separate post showing the details.

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North Transept

At the far end of the nave is the Angel Choir where you will find several tombs and the infamous Lincoln Imp, if you look closely enough. Legend has it that he caused so much chaos one of the angels turned him to stone.

Eleanor of Castile (1241 – 1290) was the Queen Consort of Edward I. Her entrails were buried in a visceral tomb to avoid the unpleasant smells of moving her body to Westminster Abbey. When she died, near Lincoln, her husband famously ordered a stone cross to be erected at each stopping-place on the journey to London, ending at Charing Cross. (The Eleanor Crosses)

Tomb details
Tomb details

As usual I was particularly interested in the choir area. Lincoln has some delightful misericords, unfortunately all the seats were down ready for Evensong when we entered, and on gently raising one to see what lay beneath I was verbally assaulted by one of the clergymen. Despite the fact that the seats are raised daily and sat upon he proceeded to lecture me loudly and publicly about the damage I could cause to the medieval hinges (?) – I politely pointed out that there is no notice or ropes to indicate that one should not look at the seats, but he was not in any mood to listen. A nearby fellow photographer hastily withdrew from the choir, and my OH was almost shaking with anger.  The altercation did somewhat sour our visit and I was saddened not to have at least seen the carvings in person.

St Hugh's Choir
St Hugh’s Choir

However, do not let my mishap deter you from visiting the Choir as it is very beautiful and is where the Bishop’s throne – cathedra – is located.

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The South Transept entrance

Lincoln cathedral does have a cloister, but much smaller than that of Norwich, built around 1296 and unusually on the north side.

p9120193The cloisters are reached down the north east transept (Slype corridor) and through a heavy wooden door.

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Three sides are †13c. They have a wooden ceiling with carved bosses and Gothic arches.

Wooden vault
Wooden vault

We’ll have a look at the carvings in the next post.

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Heyjude

I now live in the UK, but spent several years travelling and then living in South Africa. I now look forward to a long and leisurely retirement doing what I like most - gardening, photography, walking and travelling.

28 thoughts on “Lincoln Cathedral: Interior”

  1. Wonderful captures from the Lincoln Cathedral, Jude. My visit to this cathedral left me speechless. What a beauty! The cloisters looks indeed identical to Norwich. 🙂
    Sunny greetings from Oslo,
    wishing you a great weekend. x

  2. Superb post, Jude! That header pic is a dream! 🙂 🙂 Did you have to pay to take photos inside at Lincoln? You do in Durham, though I’ve been known to snaffle the odd one (tee hee 🙂 ) Not worth being sneaky though if you want to luxuriate in the details like this.

    1. You pay to enter, and photos are allowed (except of the misericords…which apparently are hardly ever on show). I did see a couple of people sneaking photos in Durham and the both got chastised!!

  3. Lincoln here I came. A most enticing post, Jude. So much magnificence in so many materials and periods, and so much information about the mysterious architecture of churches. A pity about the aggressive clergyman.

    1. There’s more to come – it is a delightful cathedral inside and out. If they actually left the seats up no-one would need to touch them at all! He was such a pompous man.

  4. Lovely interior tour indeed, Jude. One of the things that gets me riled about entering such religious places is the attitude of some of the ‘staff’. I also really resent having to pay to enter any religious building, given the overall wealth of most religions, and the idea that they were built for the use of anyone to appreciate.
    To be honest, although I occasionally give donations, I refuse to pay to enter such places anymore. I have to settle for exterior photos instead. What happened to those Christian ideals, I wonder?
    Best wishes, Pete. x

    1. OH was pretty riled! I can understand they don’t want the seats damaged, but come on! Medieval hinges? Really? Most of the cathedral has been messed about with over the centuries, especially in Victorian times. It was a humiliating experience, he could have been more discreet talking to me.

  5. How awful. We’ve both been on the receiving end of similar rage for innocent transgressions, though not in a church, and it does shake you. (The last time, John got an apology from another guide who was equally shocked.) You’d think a clergyman would know how to behave better.

    Anyway, the cathedral is beautiful and I’m especially looking forward to the post about the windows.

  6. I’d need a week of Sundays to explore from top to bottom. Such exquisite work and fine detail. Stupendous. ❤ ❤ Thank you for sharing, Jude. This is the closest I'll ever get to such masterpiece workmanship.

  7. I’m reading these posts out of order (having just read about the Cloisters) and now I’m even more in awe of the wooden ceiling and its carved bosses!! Built in 1066!! Be still my heart! One could spend a lifetime researching and studying these old churches.

    Shame on that nasty, bad-tempered clergyman. I would have felt so humiliated … then as an afterthought, outraged.

    1. I wouldn’t have minded so much if he hadn’t been so aggressive about it. If here had been a notice then I wouldn’t have even gone close, but in the absence of one nor any of the red ropes that were obvious no entry signs, well how was one supposed to know not to touch… the OH was rather outraged on my behalf.

  8. WOW! The craftsmanship is unbelievable. So is the attitude of the clergyman actually. Officials with an inflated sense of importance annoy the heck out of me. But you did get some gorgeous shots despite encountering Grumpy in the flesh:-)

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